Making Your Own Motorcycle Side Box Mould

The best part about making your own motorcycle side box mould is that you have the freedom to pick the materials. For example, you can use fibreglass and steel or plastic and aluminium. It's also a relatively inexpensive process.

During the design phase of the project, I drew up a few specifications to ensure that the end product would be a quality motorcycle side box. First, I decided on the alloy used for the casting material, which is aluminium silicon. This metal is not as hard as some of the other aluminum alloys. Also, it has the cheapest production cost. As a result, it is the best choice for a motorcycle piston.

After selecting the aforementioned metal, it was time to make the metal a reality. To do so, a metallic mould was created. One advantage of using a metallic mould is that the heat transfer is more efficient. In other words, the molten metal does not have to spend as much energy cooling down the mould. Additionally, the sand that was used in the molten metal was less likely to get scorched.

Next, I drilled a few holes in the flange around the edges of the mold. These holes enable the mould to be bolted together again. When you are ready to fill the mold, you will need a good sealant, which should be provided by the manufacturer. You will also need to clean all the parts of the mould to remove any excess dirt and dust. Finally, you will need to spray a layer of anti-rust oil on the exterior of the mould. Although this is a small task, it is important that you make sure that it is done correctly. If you are not satisfied with the results, it is always better to take it to the experts.

As you might imagine, a lot of work went into this project. The most important step was to determine which material was the most thermally efficient. Using an aluminum-silicon alloy as the base of the molten metal, the temperature was kept at about 700degC. Excessive stirring was avoided to prevent the molten metal from heating too much and to keep the composition as intact as possible.

Another notable step was to identify the most efficient way to cool the molten metal. Several options were considered before settling on a cooling scheme that maximized the molten metal's thermal efficiency. During the heat up period, it was prudent to use a small amount of aqueous sodium silicate to keep the molten metal at a constant temperature.

Once the metal had cooled down, it was time to pour. There were several factors to consider when it came to the pouring method, including the material used for the mould, the type of molten metal, the size of the mould, and the speed of the molten metal. All of these considerations were taken into account, and the resulting procedure was one of the smoothest I've ever experienced.

Motorcycle Side box Mould